Albania: "I See You Now."
My initial impression of Albania was from the air. As we flew over the countryside, I marveled at the mountains and the lush green valleys, the river that wove its way through them both. How magical, I thought, as I felt my body fill with a momentary little surge of adrenaline. Who would have ever thought that the girl from the Iron Range of Minnesota, USA would be flying to Albania to make a home! If you had told me this 10 years ago, I would have been both awestruck yet skeptical. What is even an Albania, I would have wondered. And now, here I was, nearly 6,000 feet above the earth, taking in the gorgeousness that I hadn’t known to expect.
Once we arrived at our new place, I’m ashamed to admit I allowed my “American-ism” to take over and see all of the things I felt were lacking. There was no concierge. No “office,” no signage except for the ones taped to the elevator that said it was repaired and that it would be 1,000 lek per unit to help offset the repair. On the wall, in the hallway that alternated between a dim fluorescent light flickering on and off with our movement, were a collection of lock boxes. One was labeled with the name of the apartment we were staying in, and the code we were given opened it up to reveal one set of keys. They may as well have given us keys to the city itself. We were about to learn many, many things.
I had mixed feelings of course, me and my observations of the world around me. I had just come from the quintessential Mediterranean paradise that was Calpe! It didn’t feel like a step back, no no no. It felt like another world completely. This was a world I had never had the opportunity to see or even have the inkling to dream about.
The sidewalks are brick in most places, yet they run along an actual sidewalk consisting of either cement or what feels and looks like granite in other places. There doesn’t seem to be a reason for why it’s not consistent, you just kind of walk where it feels like you should. You think you’re supposed to be walking along on that little brick path, then you hear the ding-ding of a bell behind you, and you realize there is a gentleman on a bike trying to overtake. So, you move up to the barely-there cement path that is about to disappear up against a set of stairs that goes into a shop or descends down into a bakery. Something. The man passes you, so you move back to the space that is the brick path, only to be presented with a rather spacious proper sidewalk with benches and trees and even a tiny plaza. So you move off the brick again, take position on the sidewalk, and continue on. If there were footprints in blue paint of the paths I take, it would look like a scribble of knots.
Everything here by way of buildings is cement. The outsides rarely match the beauty and even modern look of the insides. It’s not uncommon to see buildings in various states of completion – or demolition, it’s almost impossible to tell which is the case. At first, I will admit, this was jarring. Things felt so unfinished. Yet, as time goes on and I get to know this little city in Albania, I realize that it is because Durrës is unfinished! It is a place that is growing and finding its footing.
There were times during the first two weeks of being here that I would have to remind myself, “You are in Albania!” and I would make myself look at the world around me with a renewed appreciation. I had to remind myself that to become a good traveler, it was important to see places as they are, not what I expect them to be. Many times I reminded myself to see the beauty in the things that I hadn’t considered.
Look at the way the sun rises over the post-communist era surroundings I am in, I thought, as I took in the view from our terrace. These plain, cement apartment buildings and homes are the perfect backdrop for the sunshine lighting them up every morning.
Look how the Adriatic Sea comes into Durrës so gently, I mused. It was almost as if the sea knows how much this city has been through, so she chooses to be temperate. Look how the sky is so dramatic, as if to make up for the calmness below.
Look at the way people lay out kibble and water for the dogs that belong to Durrës. At first it hurt my heart thinking of these dogs looking for food and kindness. Then, as I went on my daily walks, I would see a bowl of water here, a newspaper laid out with kibble there. An older woman coming out of the side street, a sandwich in her hand; approaching a dog with a red tag (extreme caution!), offering him some lunch. He takes it, and lays down with it, not in a hurry to wolf it down. I started seeing the healthy weight of the dogs here, and I realized with a smile that people are feeding them, people are being kind to them. They seem to roam the streets by way of habitual daily jaunts, tails high in the air. They run along the beach happily; my initial worry was for naught.
Dogs Of Durrës Albania
Look at the markets on every street, fruit and vegetables bright and ready! Spices and bread and big jugs of bottled water are well stocked. This place is thriving! I didn’t even see this many markets in Spain!
Decisions! So fresh
Look at all of the little coffee shops on every block. See how the men gather every day and have their coffee. I imagine it strong and piping hot in those little demitasse cups, the men visiting with one another, smoking their cigarettes. The official outfit of Albanian men seems to be one of two things: a long sleeved dark shirt with a black puffer vest and black pants with black tennis shoes, OR a tracksuit of dark blue or black. If you’re older, you’re probably in the long sleeve shirt and puffer vest. You may be wearing a cap. If you’re younger, you’re in the track suit, usually not in a cap so that your styled hair has its moment.
Look how the women here dress up for their walks on the promenade. They wear shiny leggings with short black leather jackets. Their earrings dangle and their hair is long. Sometimes they wear little fur jackets and dressy boots. They take care to do their makeup, and I imagine they smell good too, what with all the perfumes for sale everywhere. Look how they are so different from the more mature women, who quietly walk with a friend or their husbands, adorned with short hair and puffer jackets.
Hear the fireworks that go off during the night here and there. At first I wondered if it was from the protests, but no – I have come to learn that this is just how they celebrate life here.
Hear the music that I have become accustomed to: synth pop, Balkan folk-pop, and a style of music I have learned is called tallava. Tallava is known for electronic keyboards, hypnotic rhythms, elaborate vocal melodies, and influences from Turkish and other regional musical traditions. I find myself delighting in the way it floats across the promenade from restaurant to restaurant. So, as I live here day after day, moment after moment, I am faced with my own privileged expectations and preconceived notions – and I’m usually aware of them instantly. I am learning to pivot and open my mind instead of having an opinion first and foremost. I am learning to remind myself that I am a guest in another country, and it isn't my place to decide how things ought to be. Instead, I want to appreciate how things are and what I can learn from them.
And so I say...
Albania exists unapologetically. She makes no effort to be anything other than what you see is what you get. Yet, she is trying to evolve – of course she is. She is not stagnant, no, that is for other places without the drive and determination. No, she is unwavering in her lack of filter, surrounded by the sunshine and the birds and the dogs and the old men on bicycles and the old ladies with their grocery carts and the young people with their fashion. This is what lets you know that she is way more than what meets the eye.
And I think about that girl from a small, all-American corner of the world called the Iron Range. She looked down from an airplane at a country she never imagined she'd call home, even temporarily. She had no idea what awaited her on the ground. Maybe that's the beauty of it all. I came here expecting to discover Albania, and somewhere along the way, Albania helped me discover a little more about myself. “Faleminderit” Albania. Thank you.
Views around Durrës, Albania
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